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Join date : 2012-07-27
Location : Australia

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PostSubject: Slide and Glide Technique!   Slide and Glide Technique! I_icon_minitimeSun Sep 23, 2012 1:44 am

Article submitted, accepted and published in NAFA (National Australian Fishing

Slide and Glide Technique! (Live Bait)"
The "Slide and Glide Technique" for Live Bait Fishing is
particularly applicable for snaggy, inshore reef terrain. With this technique,
you can target large bottom reef dwellers such as, Snapper, Baldchin, Dhufish,
Parrot Fish and Wrasse ( For USA Readers. Australian sought after Reef Fish but
applies to large reef fish anywhere) All from reefy bottoms that normally can
only be surface fished.

The Slide and Glide Technique was apparently developed in Hawaii for fishing
Live Baits off the rocks into deep water and very snaggy bottoms. Clearly,
there are plenty of potential fishing spots such as this around your coastline

Necessary Equipment:

Basically, all you need is a reasonable-sized Beach Rod matched with a Reel
that can hold at least 350 m 10 kg line, and a second smaller rod and reel with
lighter line, suitable for Live Bait catching.

You will need some HD clip-on swivels, size number 4, or some HD spring type
swivel snaps, which are better, some split rings, size 12 to 14, or solid brass
rings about the same size (Curtain Rings) This size split ring is hard to find
in tackle shops sometimes so use a HD 2.5 cm diameter Key Ring to suit. You’ll
also need a small reel each of, 2-4 kg line, 10 kg and 30 kg line. Any other
items you may need, like hooks for Live Bait are probably already in your
tackle box. Sinker requirements, which will possibly surprise you, will become
self-explanatory as the method unfolds.

In Situ Fishing Situation:

OK, lets presume you have all the necessary items already and are on a
beach, or rock retaining wall, or natural cliffs etc., where there is a reefy
bottom out in front of you.. In other words an area that can only be surface
fished generally from the shore because of that reefy bottom.

Setting Up The Big Rod:

First we take one of our heavy duty split rings, size 12 to 14, or HD Key
Ring etc., and attach it to the end of our 10 kg line which is on our Big Rod
and Reel. Use a suitable strong fishing knot like a Double Turned, Locked Loop,
Half Blood Knot. ( If you don’t know this knot use your own favourite end knot
or Swivel joining knot, so long as it has good knot strength.) Then we attach a
60 cm length of 2-4 kg line to this same ring, but on opposite side. Then to
the other end of this 2-4 kg line, we tie on a suitable casting weight,
depending on our Rod’s capabilities, e.g. 50-90 grams. Only tie this weight on!
Don’t waste a clip-swivel!

Sinker Requirement:

Now this casting weight can be anything from an old rusty nut or bolt to a
piece of steel with a hole drilled through it, so long as it approximates and
doesn’t exceed our Rod’s weight casting ability or recommendations. You’re
going to lose this casting weight anyway so don’t use good Lead-Sinkers,
Clip-Swivels etc. This method is designed so that the casting weight will be
broken off on the light 2-4 kg line later, obviously snagged on that reefy

Casting And Intentionally Snagging:

Having thus set the Big Rod up, we now cast out as far as we can into the
deeper water, or as far as the weighted line will fly. I recommended 10 kg line
as the main line as it is not too light for this style of fishing and not too
heavy for distance casting. It’s surprising just how far you will cast with
just a weight on the very end of the line and no bait on it to catch the air
and slow it down. The next step is to wind the line in slowly to get the casting
weight nicely snagged on that reef bottom as quickly as possible and as far out
as possible, so that a tight line can be maintained with a suitable Big Fish
drag setting on your reel. Set your Rod up in a holder of some sort to maintain
this tight line to our snagged sinker and proceed to the next step.

Catching The Live Bait:

Lets do some presuming now. In this case, we’ve already used our Small Rod
and caught our Live Bait and have it, or them, swimming around in a bucket of
fresh seawater.

Live Bait Rig Trace:

We now cut a trace about 1 m long from our small reel of 10 kg line and
another about the same length from our 30 kg small reel of line. Use an
Albright or improved Albright style knot, or a full Blood Knot, to join these
two lengths of line into one piece. ( We don’t want this trace too long or it
becomes hard to get close enough to our Fish to Gaff it if we are on our
lonesome. About 2 m is about right.)

To the end of 10 kg/30 kg trace, we attach a number 4 HD Clip Swivel or
Spring Type Swivel preferably and to the 10 kg end. On the other 30 kg end we
attach a suitable Live Bait Hook. Use a Mustard Hoodlum hook or similar if you
have one using a Long-Line knot, or you usual knot if you don’t know how. If
using Long-Line knot it must be tied first before joining the two lengths of
trace together. The actual Hook size will be dependent on the size of your Live
Bait and/or the size of the Fish you are after. Obviously, once you know how
you will have made up these traces already at home.

(Note: Depending on what you are after and how big it is, or how toothy,
sometimes a length of Wire Trace, or larger Monofiliment maybe needed in place
of the 30 kg monofiliment hook end of trace used in this article.)

Attaching Live Bait Rig To Mainline:

We now lower the line on our Big Rod for easy access and open up the Clip
Swivel on our made-up trace and then clip it onto the 10 kg line on our Big
Rod. It is then advisable to, if using standard Clip Swivels, to use a pair of
pliers to close off the brass body flaps of the Clip hard over on the closed
Clip once it’s on the line. This is so it cannot open later under stress. We
then push the Hook on other end of trace carefully through the Live Bait in a
position that allows it to swim freely and not die on us too soon. ( Just rear
of the Anus or into the shoulder are good spots. Try not to touch spine with
hook point, or pierce gut walls.)

Putting Out Our Live Baits:

Now we take our Live Baited End Rig Trace that’s attached to our Big Rod
line by the closed off, sliding Clip Swivel and simply toss it all into the
water at our feet, so to speak. The Live Bait will under its own power and in
its own good time, find its way down the line and eventually out to where the
line is snagged by our Casting Weight, unless taken by something big first!
Check the Big Rod line is set to big Fish drag setting when leaving in your
Holder unattended..

( The benefit here is that the Live Bait suffers much less injury and stays
alive much longer when it hasn’t had the gut wrenching, jerking effect of heavy
casting placed on it in the usual way of getting out a Live Bait. Plus you end
up with your Live Bait getting out some three times at least more distance than
you could cast it normally, with or without a Sinker.)

When big fish take the live bait usually they will break the light sinker line in their first rush. If not raise rod tip hard to break off yourself. Then you fight the fish as normal. A sudden big bow in your line will often denote bait taken somewhere before bait has swam to end of line. Break off sinker line and wind in till you feel weight of fish on other end.

Further Options:

We can if we wish to, put another Live Bait out on the same line, the same
way. And even more after that! The only thing to remember here is that, if all
Live Baits are taken at the same time by Big Fish, you will have a
hell-of-a-hard-time landing all of them!

I nearly forgot. In action, the Sliding trace via the Clip Swivel comes to
rest on the Split Ring when light sinker line breaks when fighting Fish and cannot come off if Pliers used to
close Clip Swivel flaps hard over if using that type.
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